All labor and material for the furnishing and installing of exterior or interior stone building veneer.
Masonry Contractor shall include building into the masonry equipment and materials furnished through other divisions such as lintels, steel framing, shelf angles, anchors, sleeves, thimbles, piping, flashings, and other miscellaneous items, and shall also be required to do the cutting and patching of masonry where necessary to accommodate work of other trades, all as hereinafter specified, shown on plans, or reasonably implied in either, providing a complete job.
Non-structural building wall veneer comprised of naturally occurring quarried stone sawn thin to ¾" - 1½" +/- thick, set in cement mortar.
Provide samples of adequate size and quantity to represent the full range of color, texture, and other naturally occurring characteristics of the stone for approval.
DELIVERY, STORAGE, AND HANDELING:
Before commencing with work, tarpaulins shall be provided to protect newly laid masonry from damage by inclement weather. This protection shall be placed and removed as required. Ambient temperature shall be 40 degrees or above while masonry is being erected. When ambient temperature falls below 50 degrees the mortar mixing water and that used for wetting down stone shall be heated.
Please note: You will need to round up to the nearest 5 square feet. Handy packs hold 5 square feet. Thin veneer crates hold 100 square feet. Crates hold around 250 square feet. (Example: If, after subtracting your windows, doors, etc. from the total square footage, you have 121 square feet, you would have to round up to 125 square feet. Then you would order 1 thin veneer crate and 5 handy packs.)
Determine the look you are trying to achieve. Choose the material that best meets the color, shape, and size for your design.
BUILDING CODE REQUIREMENTS
Building code requirements vary from area to area. Check with local authorities for building code requirements in your area.
PREPARE YOUR SURFACE
Before applying stone, it is best to layout an area of stone near the work area to help find color, shape and size to design your pattern. This will allow you to layout and rearrange the stone in the most pleasing design.
Type "N" or pre-blended stone mortar mix. Use one part "N" mortar with two parts mason sand. Mix enough water to achieve a workable consistency.
This mortar will be used for the scratch coat, buttering the stone and to grout the joints.
A liquid bonding agent can be added to the mortar for additional bonding strength. Follow manufacturer's instructions.
Install a scratch coat ½" to ¾" thick coat of mortar to the metal lath in a workable area.
Do not apply scratch coat to the entire area. Only work in sections, approximately 5-10 square feet, and so stones can be applied before mortar dries.
Allow the scratch coat to set for 30 minutes.
If you are applying the stone directly to concrete and masonry surfaces you will need to improve the wall's adhesion capabilities. To do this dampen the wall prior to installation or add a liquid bonding agent to the mortar mix.
Install corner stones first starting at the bottom and working up. Apply an even, ½" - 1" thick layer of mortar to the back of the stone (a.k.a. "buttering"). Because each stone will be a different thickness you'll need to adjust the amount of mortar applied to the back of each piece.
You may need to insert galvanized screws around stones that needed to be held in place while mortar sets.
Attempt to keep the joints between stones a consistent height and width no larger than ½" if possible (because of the natural contour of the stone there will be areas where joints will be greater than ½") and avoid having joints that line up vertically between rows.
Press the stone firmly into place until the mortar behind the stone squeezes out on all sides. Wiggle the stone as you press to assure a firm bond.
Clean stones as necessary during installation. Do not allow the mortar to dry on stone's surface overnight.
Note: Stones can be cut and shaped with a masonry hammer, nippers, or cut to length using a Skill saw with either a dry or wet cut diamond or masonry blade. Position cut edges away from view when possible.
After the stones have all been applied, fill the joints with mortar using a grout bag. Conceal any noticeable broken or cut stone edges by covering with mortar.
Wait for the mortar to firm in the joints and then rake out the excess using a wood or metal strike tool. Joints can remain flush or raked for the desired look. Portions of the featured Real Quarried Stone photos depict flush and raked joints. Seal all joint edges by applying pressure on the mortar, causing mortar to move in to the joints.
Note: The mortar joints will smear if they are worked too soon.
When the mortar becomes crumbly use a dry bristle brush or a small whisk broom to clean spots of mortar off the stone's face.
Note: Loose mortar and mortar spots should not be allowed to dry overnight.
Using just a stiff brush and clean water is recommended for cleaning the stonework. A mild solution of granular detergent mixed with water may be used to remove dirt or other stains.
Once all cleaning is complete a stone sealer may be applied to enhance the stone's color and give it a shiny appearance. Be sure to test the sealer on an unused stone before applying to make sure you will like the results.